A DAY OUT IN BRUSSELS

Being so close to Brussels we thought it would be rude not to have a day out there. Such an easy trip from Dendermonde to Brussels, half an hour on the train for only €6.50 return each. Might just be a bit more expensive in UK. Most of the day was just a bit of bimbling with a few tourists sites thrown in. We came across a great lunch spot De Noordzee in Sint-Katelijnestraat. Razor clams with garlic butter, parsley and chips, what a delight! With mayon(n)aise of course, spelt in the Belgian manner. Scampi and chips were good too, really large freshly fried prawns.

Razor Clams at De Noordzee.

A very well known Brussels speciality is of course waffles. They were never my favourite. That's not to say I don't like them it's just they never hit the spot. However......there seems to be a competition raging in the more touristy areas for the largest, most gross and Chantilly creamed offerings. I think they look disgusting. Poor little humble waffle buried down below. They are however very popular with certain ethnic groups.

A few of the many 'waffles' for sale.

Walking back to the train we passed through the Grand-Place which was arranged as a concert venue for the French festival. They have two each year one for the Flemish speaking and a quite separate one for the French speaking. No division in the population there then! Unfortunately it was not starting until later that evening. But!! a bit of a warm up was about to happen and our favourite French singer Zazie came on for a couple of numbers. We have her music but never seen her before. What a bonus. Unfortunately she was headlining so would not be on until virtually midnight. If you want to try her music find the track 'A Ma Place'.

Zazie in the Grand-Place.

DENDERMONDE

Dendermonde is probably another Belgium town that most people have never heard of. Should I be more correct and say non Belgian people have never heard of? Once again it's a surprisingly good little town with lots of history, now obviously quite well off and a commuter town for Brussels and Gent. It's only ~30 minutes to either city by train and judging by the size of the bicycle and car parks at the station this is the case. The main square or should I say curved wedge shape is a delight with at least 12 bars, cafes and restaurants. Take a look on this link, make sure you pan around. https://goo.gl/maps/jurbmnyMcVw if it works!

Flags on the exterior of Belfort van Dendermonde.

Dendermonde regionally is known for the once every ten year event of the 'Ros Beiaardommegang'. Briefly there were lots of medieval feuding between local lords, France and Spain. Various wars were raged, marriages and treaties confirmed, children born to hopefully join families together. You know the story, all good European stuff. The once every ten year event to celebrate a victory the Ommegang, the festival, involves a 4.85 metre horse parading through the city with lots of other spectacles, performances etc. The reason why I am telling this story is so that I can pass on the rather strict criteria for being one of the 4 riders of Ros Beiaard, the horse. Just is case you have aspirations. Applicants must meet the following conditions as detailed in the official publications:

1. They must be four brothers.

2. They must follow each other in age, no interruption by the birth of a girl.

3. They are required to be a minimum of 7 years and a maximum of 21 on the date of the festival.

4. They have to be born in Dendermonde.

5. They must reside continuously in Dendermonde.

6. Their parents must be born in Dendermonde.

7. Their parents must have lived continuously in Dendermonde.

So no problem with applicants out of a population of 45,000! That aside the next appearance of this strange spectacle is May 2020, so make a note in your diary.

Ros Beiaardommegang in the Grote Markt.

Apart from historical events, they are keeping up to date with recent relandscaping part of the town centre, with all new paving, plants, furniture etc. Cycling past I noticed some unusual bench seats. Why have they got built in solar panels? This could be the future. The benches have solar panels and both contactless mobile phone charging as well as normal USB! I'm sure the cynics will say if you sit on them there will be no solar power. They do have an internal battery so it even works at night. We need these everywhere.

Solar street furniture. The future?

AN AVERAGE DAY IN GENT

We are both really enjoying Gent, bicycle theft aside. The mooring is very central, free and adjacent to two other sets of friends on barges. People sometimes say 'what do you do all day?' What does anyone do all day? We normally start with expresso followed by a run or exercise of some sort. Whilst out running you always come across interesting things. A previous morning whilst running along the cycle track that follows the canal I came across the device as photographed below. It's a bicycle counter. The day's figures were 1610 that morning at 8.00AM and 52260 so far this week, up to Wednesday AM. On Saturday AM it was over 67000 and still rising. This is just one direction into the city centre. It just shows that if you put in the right infrastructure, in this case proper dedicated bike routes they will be used. It's interesting to see that in many places car traffic has been severely curtailed or completely removed in favour of bicycles. Excellent.

Solar powered bicycle counter.

There's always a bit of sculpture around, if you look for it. Sometimes it's monumental and historic other times a bit avantguard. The piece photographed below definitely needs work. I have no idea what it is trying to express in the middle of the canal and I'm into this stuff.

I feel this sculptor needs to try harder.

A good local facility at the end of the moorings is a chip shop, a 'frituur'. The Belgiums are renowned for their chips and this one is no exception. It has a great range of food on offer and it also does have, for us, the inviting name of 'Frituur de Bargie'. Evening meal sorted.

'Frituur be Bargie' close to our mooring.

There is always plenty of socialising. We were invited onto Elodie a barge owned by Australian friends. They had friends who work in Gent over so we were invited for an aperitif, well a few beers. Later on after a riotous evening discussing pretty well everything, the conversation got serious. Which is the best Marmite (British) or Vegimite (Australian)? The conversation did get quite hectic! I could not express a favourite as I don't like either. It seemed to boil down to what you're brought up with. Margaret definitely preferred the Marmite. Well there's a surprise.

Emma and Margaret with their own favourites.

A TALE OF TWO BROMPTONS

We rode into the centre of Gent the other day for a few essentials, a bit of retail therapy and a coffee. Nothing unusual so far. On returning a couple of hours later to our bikes we were confronted with the sight of our helmets on the ground but no Bromptons!!! At best this was very inconvenient as we are moored a good walk across the other side of the city. The bikes had been locked together and to the bicycle rack so someone had been determined to steal them.

Margaret looking pensive at where the bikes had been.

OK what do we do? Take the tram back to Soraya and work out where we can buy a pair of new Bromptons. I telephoned the insurance company and asked the procedure. After a short conversation they said we should get a police report, buy the new bikes and submit all with the claims form they would send. All very efficient but still hugely annoying. Fortunately we had the Bromton bag with us so it was literally only the two bikes plus locks etc that were missing. We thought 'no time like the present' so we googled where the local Police Station was and off we went. Upon arrival it was closed, so it's back tomorrow morning. Walking back across Gent from the Police Station to our tram we passed by a large modern covered market/performance space lovingly called the Sheep Hut. In the distance I saw a couple of bikes parked and as I rushed off I mumbled 'there's a couple of Bromptons and one is green'. Margaret couldn't work out why I'd suddenly veered off the route to the tram but as we got closer we saw they were our bikes!! Amazing. They were locked together with a new lock. Fortunately and stupidly there were not locked to the railings that they were leaning against.

Two locked Bromptons.

What now? We decided to move them quickly to a new location. They had, however, been locked in opposing directions so movement with peddles clashing and the steering was almost impossible. After a bit of shoving and pushing we managed to move to a very central area and we flagged down a large people carrier type of taxi as the bikes had to go in as one piece. We're not sure if he believed our story or just thought we were the people stealing the bikes. We got them back to Soraya.

Angle grinding off the lock.

Next morning it was out with the angle grinder to remove the thieves lock then on the bikes to a bike shop for two new locks. So whilst it was all a bit of a hassle, it all ended well. We were incredibly lucky. We did decide to go to the Police Station to report the incident. Asking whether the area was covered by CCTV we were told no! CCTV coverage was only in the red light 'prostitute' area and the area where students drink. We were not in either. He did comment that if someone was stealing a bike and there was a choice of a regular bike and a Brompton they would steal the Brompton. Two Bromptons together I suppose you would say 'were a steal!'

NUTS IN GENT

You sometimes by chance find a little gem of a shop. This was the case yesterday in Gent. It was a shop that only sold nuts, plus a few dates from Saudi Arabia. The owner was rightfully proud of the shop and the nuts, they were free to sample and were some of the freshest we have ever tasted.

Spoiled for choice, which shall we have?

The choice was huge. We tested the slightly spicy cashews, they were seriously yummy. We definitely need some of those. We came out with lots of nuts, more than I thought we would eat in a few months. We had friends around for drinks on Soraya that evening, the nuts were well liked. So much so that I think a return trip to the shop before leaving Gent will be required!

Designery display of nuts in an area of Gent that otherwise has very ordinary shops.

BACK TO GENT

We're back on Soraya after a great summer which included many friends staying at Kerloc'h, Kerloc'h put up for sale and sold, a lovely wedding in Devon, several trips to London and a short time in Bath! 

After a two day trip to Gent we found out that we'd arrived just in time for the Flanders Music Festival which started the next day. There were 16 music venues in the city throughout the day with a great variety of music, both classical and modern. I felt I was being seranaded by this musician in his boat who went round and round in circles just below me. Great fun.

One of the many musical performances on the river.

In the evening, the opening night of the festival, there was a continuous performance with orchestras and choirs playing on a large stage built on the water in the centre of the city. The light show with it was amazing.

Concert and light show.

The finale of the evening was a fantastic firework display which lit up the whole city with all its beautiful buildings and façades. We were so lucky to be in Gent on this particular day.

The fireworks were spectacular.

P'TITE SORAYA

Whist not on Soraya I've still been involved with all things barging. When we bought Soraya she came with a Zodiac inflatable. Whilst this was perfectly functional it looked wrong on Soraya. A couple of years ago I placed an advert on the inflatable and it sold almost instantly in Reims. Since then I have been looking for a replacement, but one which is more in keeping with Soraya. When we bought Kerloc'h the house came with a small fishing boat. It had been made and used by Clet the builder and owner of Kerloc'h. The boat was in the garage but unfortunately it's transom was layed directly on the concrete floor which is slightly moist. We saw straight away the back was rotted out, as in the photograph.

Clet's boat as aquired.

This summer in Kerloc'h I looked again at Clet's boat. Was it possible to restore it? Was it worth restoring? Did I have the skill to restore it? After a lot of pacing around I thought yes! So hack out all the rotten wood and see what we have. Basically it was the transom and a few other small sections that had rotted. Out with the saw and I reduced the boats length by about 150mm. Managed to buy some marine ply (contreplaqué marine) installed it, new hull rubbing strips, lots of sanding, two part filling, general restoration, paint sent over from Southampton, lots of painting, more sanding, painting.... 

Partly restored.

Finally after many hours P'tite Soraya, or whatever we will finally call her is finished in full Soraya colours.

P'tite Soraya in her new livery and no rot.

Enjoyed the project as no time pressures. The first year at Kerloc'h we had the boat in the corner of the salon upright (so you did not see the wrotten bits) and decorated it as a Christmas 'boat'. Kerloc'h is now on the market after 18 years of fun. We'll see what happens. It will be a nice reminder to have a small part of Kerloc'h on Soraya. Only problem now is how do I get the tender to Soraya?

VLAANDEREN

Vlaanderen or as we know it Flanders, the north and western section of Belgium, has presented us with many varied canal structures. People said Belgium was easy cruising with very few locks. They were correct but failed to mentioned the multitude of lifting bridges. They lift in every conceivable way, right handed, left handed, vertical, swung to one side, pivoted up over the canal, turning to one side, turning centrally ...... you get the idea. Each one has to be negotiated. Some are very easy. A telephone or VHF call and up goes the bridge. Others involve a call followed by agreeing a time usually to reduce town centre road traffic impacts.

Twin lifting bridges in Bruges.

A first for us, and we don't think there are many of them, was a lifting railway bridge. What fun stopping the trains. This one certainly had to be agreed and programmed.

Lifting railway bridge in Veurne.

In Nieuwport there is a confluence of three canals, three rivers and an opening to the sea. It's appropriately called The Goose Foot. In plan it does have a similar appearance. Here we had to arrive at the correct time for the tide. The levels between the canal and the sea have to be within certain limits for the locks to operate. As there is a main road around the whole structure there are also lifting bridges, so lots of negotiating and waiting.

Going into Gravensluis sea lock in The Goose Foot.

Once in the lock, waters moved and we exited into the middle of The Goose Foot which is tidal and hence the sea. Soraya was not amused, salt water! Very quickly we entered another lock and transferred back to another canal system. The locks have four gates, depending whether you are going up or down. The canal stays at the same height but the sea end of the lock can be at very different heights. The lock gates have to take the water pressures whatever height the water is outside. All very complex.

A pair of sea lock gates in Ostend with opposing gates.

On the Lo Canal we went through a section that was more akin to ditch crawling. Thank goodness we did not meet any oncoming traffic.

The exceedingly narrow Lo Canal.

I'm sure we'll find many more interesting structures of fascinating engineering ingenuity. For now it's back to Bath and Brittany for us, so no more blog posts until September. Soraya is all tucked up in Diksmuide, her solar power station keeping all systems fully functioning, I hope.

A BRIDGE/LOCK TOO FAR

Upon arrival at Veurne there is perhaps a unique lock. Whilst the lock does not do very much as the levels on either side are often the same, it stops surges, floods etc. The unique part is that in the 'centre' of the lock is a horizontal swing bridge as in the photograph. This is normally across the lock for pedestrians and cyclists. Many locks have this but NOT across the centre of the lock. They are normally outside the lock gates. We entered the lock. The gates closed behind us. We waited and waited. The forward gates did not open. The level change was virtually zero. Eventually things started to move.

The lock gates open with the bridge across the lock.

Unfortunately what moved was not the forward gates opening but the swing bridge opening onto Soraya. Margaret was close to the opening bridge. I screamed 'the bridge is opening'.... 'what'....'look out the bridge is opening'.... Suddenly Margaret saw the bridge!!!!!! By that time I was in full reverse and with 75 tons there is a time delay. The lock keeper saw the problem and manually put the bridge into a backward motion. Again there is a time delay. Unfortunately Margaret on reflex tried to push the bridge off Soraya's crane and got 'involved' in the action. She trapped her hand between the bridge and Soraya! With the opposing structures reversed Margaret was released. We instantly moored and the lock keeper arrived. No question, straight to hospital.

Margaret, Benedict (lock keeper) and the consultant examining the X-rays.

Into A&E, forms were filled, X-rays were done and consultants were consulted. The bottom line Margaret was very, very lucky only having severe bruising and nothing broken. It could have been a lot worse. Crushed bones? In discussion the situation was probably caused by the fact that Belgium Waterways Authority is centralising the control of various lesser used locks and moving bridges. This means automisation and the use of video cameras from a centralised location. This particular installation is currently being changed and the lock keeper was of the opinion that there was a software problem. When he instigated the opening of the forward lock gate there was a long pause then the bridge started to move. Huge trauma. It could have been a lot worse. Benedict was excellent. He drove Margaret and me to hospital, sorted out all the medical access with the staff, in Flemish and took full responsibility. Margaret was X-rayed, examined and is fine if not a bit crushed.

Have you heard of the curative powers of a glass or two of Rosé?

Well it was hot and she did have a bandage on.

PALINGBEEK

Outside Ieper is a park called Palingbeek. An interesting landscape as it was the front line between the Belgian/British lines and the German lines. They have maintained the devastated landscape with all the craters and scars as it was, allbeit overgrown in places. It was one of the most fiercely contested battlegrounds of WW1 so it's well rearranged from the natural state. A stunning and beautiful land art installation has been created and installed over 3 hectares, on what was once no-man's land, that tries to illustrate the magnitude of the loss of life.

The approach to 'ComingWorldRememberMe'.

The installation which is breathtaking with 600,000 small clay statues of a crouching figure. The installation was designed by Koen Vanmechelen who worked with different people from different nationalities to handmake the figures. Very much a communal project that took over 4 years to complete. The number of figures is the official number of victims of WW1 in Belgium alone, irrespective of nationalities! Mind boggling. 

Margaret at the installation.

The egg at the heart of the piece represents 'rebirth' with smaller figures made by children flowing out of the egg. The statues aim to tell us that war never solves anything. Whilst it's very moving it's also uplifting as it seems to indicate a new future. It certainly is visually stunning whilst coming out of devastation.

It's difficult to write blog posts about war. Not a subject that I am familiar with or really want to address but you have to respect what the parents and families of the people have been through. They however do possess a very positive forward looking attitude. Not dwelling on the past, which is amazing. Here's to Belgium!