TIME FOR A WASH - PART 2

In the original 'Time for a wash' blog post I jokingly said it was a place for Soraya to have a wash. How wrong can you be. We have subsequently come across 'mobile' lavoirs. These are boat lavoirs that can go from place to place. Not only could you wash your clothes at these lavoirs but they also provided drying facilities. The forerunner of the launderette, only mobile.

Le Bateau Lavoir in Nogent-sur-Seine.

We are off back to the UK and others places for a while so no more posts until September. I hear you all sigh.

PIGEONS, CONTRACEPTION & MONTEREAU

May be difficult to guess the connection but it's the way ahead in Montereau-fault-Seine. They obviously had a pigeon problem so they built a pigeon loft by the river in 2012. 

Pigeonnier in Montereau-fault-Seine.

Apparently it's proving its worth as they encouraged the pigeons to nest there, not sure how, then a bit of birth control takes place. The eggs are substituted with dummy eggs and over the 4 years there has been a significant reduction in the pigeon population. Will the pigeons get wise and nest elsewhere? The jury is out. It's Bastille Day today so there will be huge feux d'artifice this evening, I'm sure that will shake the pigeons.

AGRO-INDUSTRY AND ENERGY

Just to show that we are not always cosseted in picture postcard surroundings and luxurious restaurants, I illustrate below the views from the stern of Soraya and the bow.

We are in Nogent-sur-Seine at the navigable end of Petite Seine Aval. At this point we turn around and head towards Paris, the canal getting very small, too small for Soraya. The towns claim to fame seems to be grains silos, below is one of many, its nuclear power station and a sculpture museum that after an obviously very expensive €4 million redevelopment has failed to open. Looks good on the outside but talking to local people there is a sniff of scandal in the air and no knows when it will open.

Stern view - Grain silos in Nogent-sur-Seine.

Grain silos are quite a major part of the canal landscape in mid France where landscape yields grain in abundance and considerable quantities are carried by barges. The combination of commercial barges and plaisance ensure the waterways are maintained.

Bow view - Nogent-sur-Seine Centrale Nucléaire EDF, with Sassot Mill in the foreground.

The town is 'fine' which means OK, lots of amazing timber frame buildings. It could be superb it just needs more people and a bit of inward investment. Mind you judging by the restaurant Le Cygne de la Croix and few Ferraris and Maseratis in town it may be looking up. Open that museum it looks superb!

BIG BARGES

Now that we are on the Seine the traffic is much larger. We thought we were big but..........when you moor amongst the big boys we're really quite small!!

Soraya sandwiched for the night between two commercial barges at Bray-sur-Seine

Make way, we're coming through!!

Leave room for us!

Commercial traffic always takes priority, so you must never hold them up or go first into the locks. They are all a friendly bunch as long as you are courteous, with a wave as they go past. Most of them have been barging all their lives and you certainly don't want to get on the wrong side of them. 

LES HALLES AND MORE CHEESE

We enjoy our Saturday morning marché and Les Halles Sens did not disappoint. All the usual subjects plus amazing architecture. Basically a late 1800's triangular wrought iron building with the corners cut off. All very Eiffel.

Interior of Les Halles, Sens.

The building has obviously been restored in recent years. The addition to the original design, there are now stained glass panels over the six entrances. Each displays a genre of the produce for sale: vegetables (as below), exotic fruit, mushrooms, flowers, fruit and more vegetables. All are in stunning detail, huge and include the names of the produce next to the image.

The vegetable window one of the 6 stained glass windows in Les Halles Sens.

As you know we are constantly seeking out new cheeses which we always buy. Well the 'always' took a hit when we came across Brie Noir. It actually looks inedible. Too much rind and a very, very mature centre.

Brie Noir. Not for the faint hearted.

THE TOUR GUIDE

We found in previous years we missed festivals, markets or events of potential interest that we could have been to, by arriving a day or two late. We have addressed this annoyance by appointing a 'Tour Guide'. After a very short discussion Margaret was elected by a unanimous vote to be the tour guide and so far it's working well.

The 'Tour Guide' relaxing at 'La Lucarne de Chouettes' in Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.

When not hard at it researching what's on via the internet or tourist offices Margaret finds the best restaurants, her preferred surroundings. Well you need to relax after all that conversation in the 'Office de Tourisme'. It can be quite taxing as they often have no idea or it appears no interest. A classic recently was in Auxerre. We knew the dates of the music festival, we even knew who was playing at what time. As it was a multiple venue festival we didn't know the location of the various venues in the town. We asked at the tourist office. They did not know! As we had to squeeze past a temporary raised stage outside their entrance we asked if that was one of the locations. She didn't know. We also both felt she had not even noticed the stage outside the front door. She certainly was not at all bothered as she stated she lived in a village 20km away and had no idea what was happening in Auxerre that weekend!!

Performance art in Sens, part of a pottery making demonstration? Don't you just love ochre!

One of numerous groups playing over the 2 day 'Musicsens' festival.

If you can track these festivals/events down, there is a lot on offer throughout France and they are usually free or if not at very little cost.

WOOD WORK

This part of France did and still has a surplus of trees. Many of the towns and villages are studded with timber frame buildings, some more remarkable than others. Recently in Joigny there are a couple that are worthy of mention. Firstly the House of The Tree of Jess which depicts the genealogy of Christ on the facade. This is a scene normally reserved for churches and is apparently very rare in a private dwelling and in particular carved into the structural beams of the house. It is quite extraordinary. Not aesthetically my thing but fascinating.

House of 'The Tree of Jess', Joigny.

The second house of note is the Pillory House decorated with engoulants and figures of the saints. A few glazed tiles all adds to a very detailed if not visually confusing facade.

Pillory House, Joigny.

Over door detail from a house in Sens.

NOW THIS IS BOULES

Last Sunday morning in rural France. We are moored on a peaceful spot on the river Yonne at Villeneuve-sur-Yonne and things start to happen next to Soraya. At first we thought it was some kind of picnic. Then matters got serious..... out with the steel balls.

Particularly like the Chablis and canapés.

It's only 10.30am, I note this first bottle did not last long. I'm sure there will be plenty more before going to a delightful restaurant 'La Lucarne de Chouettes' just behind where they are standing, started by the French actress Leslie Caron. We did try the restaurant and is was good, very good. The setting overlooking the river, superb.

TIME FOR A WASH

At last we find a place to wash Soraya. I try my best but you really need a professional sometimes.

A local Lavoir in Joigny.

Not sure how the cleaning works. Do we have to bring Soraya to the lavoir or does she come to Soraya? All a bit difficult. Perhaps we will resort to the old tried and tested method of doing it myself.

ON THE MOVE AGAIN

We've left Auxerre on our way towards Paris. At last!! The river is still a bit feisty especially near the weirs. As we are going downstream we can be pulled towards the weir as we approach the locks.

A turbulent ride next to the weir.

However, once on the river, away from the locks it is peaceful and calm in the sunshine.

On the river Yonne

We did enjoy Auxerre but hadn't planned to be there that long. We now have to rethink and reschedule our navigation for the year. 

MINI GLASTO!

It was Glasto weekend and not to be outdone Auxerre had a music weekend. It didn't have quite the same number of stages and there certainly was not 200,000+ people but it happened to be staged mainly on the quayside immediately adjacent to Soraya. We had ring (stage) side seats. 

Nice to have good seats and a cool bottle of Chablis. Saves all that standing.

So not quite the big headline bands but no tents, no mud, hot showers, easy access, real beds and more importantly no queue at the bar!

Outside Cathédrale St Étienne.

Later we had a good rock band pumping out the numbers in front of the main doors of the Cathedral. Not sure if this would be entertained in the UK. No problems in Auxerre.