BICYCLES AND BOULES

We are really liking Gent with all the cycling and walking. There are very few cars in the city. The only vehicles seem to be buses/trams and public service vehicles, hence it is a cyclists paradise! The only downside to this is that the cyclists do not seem to obverse any rules so you have to be on guard at the same time as minding the tram lines. Being only half an hour from Brussels a lot of people commute, cycle to the station and a quick train trip. That's not to say there is no employment in Gent. Gent is a very busy, thriving city. Cycle parking at the station takes priority with the cars pushed to the back. The bicycle park is huge and full. The photograph below is just one of the cycle parks.

Now where did I put my bike?

Back to the quayside and it's time for another round of Boules. All very close, just next to the boats. Very handy to hop back when you run out of beer.

Margaret, Chris and Sara in competition.

This was day two of a four round session. I won't say who won but it was a close game.

DESIGN MUSEUM GENT

Amongst collections of well known and unknown classic design pieces there are a couple of exhibitions of works by the artist Maarten Baas. I did feel these were more art installations rather than elements of design but it did fit well with the museum that displays items in a more eclectic way. The museum is split into two distinct sections; the old historic town house with panelled rooms, period paintings, fire places etc. and the modern white box extension. Some of the modern furniture pieces displayed singly in old brown rooms were very theatrical as below.

White Poly Chair by Max Lamb.

The Maarten Baas installation called Real Time was about time and our perception of the display of time in the form of 'clocks'. I use the term clocks loosely as all the elements in the installation were video displays of time being continuously formed. The artistic works constantly evolving. Does this sound confusing? It was. At first you have no idea what is going on. A series of quite eccentric grandfather clocks have the faces removed and a video screen put in its place. Each minute the hands are rubbed out from behind and the hands drawn in for the next time minute. All keeping good time.

Six minutes to four.

The following elements of the exhibition were a series of screens displaying a person at a desk rubber stamping a clock face onto a pad of paper and then pencilling the hands of the clock to the correct time. He then waited and at the end of the real time minute tore off the paper, screwed it up, threw it away and restamped and redrew the next time. All very accurately.

Ten minutes to four.

I think my favourite was a video looking down from a height of 2 men sweeping rubbish on a large flat surface. The way they constantly swept always configured the rubbish to tell the exact time.

Seven minutes to four.

It all must have taken ages to enact and film. Perhaps they had too much time on their hands! Interesting concepts. Well worth a visit.

COFFEE

This rally stuff is so full on, dinner here, drinks there, boules on the quayside, guided tour around the historic centre of Gent, brewery tour, talk forum of barge matters, it goes on and on. Gent is lovely with so many coffee shops, bars and restaurants in a beautiful walkable city which is virtually car free. We have had time for a few coffees and I totally endorse this coffee cup.

I agree. Biscuit was a bit dodgy, wafer filled with sweet cream.

The next coffee preformed much better with a superb petite chocolate mouse.

That's more like it.

Well that's enough about coffee we really are here for the Belgium beers. Where did I put that bottle of Delirium Tremens?

GENT - AT LAST

We arrived at last at the rally in Gent and in time! It only took 1011 kilometres, 213 locks, 12 lifting bridges, 8 tunnels and 5 weeks. I'm not sure if we will move for a while. Gent, or Ghent as we spell it, is a beautiful city will so much history and great for just bimbling, all within easy walking distance of our mooring Portus Garda. The rally has been great fun meeting old friends and making new ones. Lots of eating and drinking, general socialising and a few technical chats.

Soraya resting in her new mooring with fellow barges.

One concerning matter is language and in particular Flemish. Not being a great linguist in the first place probably does not help but the words are almost impossible to even guess. Typical road sign below. No idea what it means. The good thing is that almost everyone in this region speaks Flemish and English. Very little French as in Wallonia (South Belgium). We went to a restaurant last night and sort of accepted what came as it all became to complex.

??????

One of the many attractions is the vast range of beers. We will need to have some serious nights out.

Sculpture on the way into Portus Ganda.

MOORINGS

Moorings can vary a great deal. It's always a question in our minds when we're navigating. Where will we moor tonight? Will there be enough room for us? Most of our moorings are very good but occasionally you feel there could be a security issue or you feel just a little bit vunerable. However the other afternoon we moored in Lille. It was hard to find a decent mooring right in the middle of town but the old Lille Port Fluviale was free next to a warehouse. Not the most salubrious of sites but a good edge with good bollards next to some commercial barges. We went out for an evening drink and found the site was very secure with fencing all around and huge gates at either end which were open. Next morning we wanted to go shopping and wander around Lille. The site was more secure than we realised. Both gates were closed and locked as it was the weekend. We were determined to get out somehow. We scoured the fencing and found a panel that had come down, so we lifted our bikes over and off we went. We certainly felt Soraya was safe there.

Our salubrious but secure mooring in Lille.

Lifting the bikes over the fence.

A much prettier mooring.

BEFORE WE LEAVE FRANCE

We've been in France for a long time and it's time for a change. Belgium here we come. We decided to have a day in Lille, or as the Belgians call it Rijsel, and visit some old haunts. A coffee here, a beer there, a spot of shopping and a good meal at La Fleur de Lille. Apart from great food they do have interesting wine. I could not resist a glass of L'idiot. You have to be fairly confident of your wine to give it a name like this. They were.

L'idiot. Very acceptable.

Not that I have many desserts these days, but I could not resist a a professionally made Rum Baba. Well as the saying goes it would be rude not to. Yes the phyle was full of rum! As if the cake did not have any in already!

Rum Baba.

We passed by Meert, we were going to go in for a coffee but the queue was horrendous, however I did see that even this bastion of quality and conservative patisserie/chocolate has moved with the times and now has teddy bear's sporting a fine moustache.

Meert's new bears.

CANAL DU NORD

A new canal for us. Last time we were in this area there was a strike and the canal was closed so a detour down the Canal de Saint Quentin. This time here we go. With our numerous changes to route as a result of canal maintenance and natural events we are eventually heading north at last on the aptly named Canal du Nord.

One of the many deep locks.

There are a lot of locks and lots of waiting as there is serious commercial traffic who have priority. On average with the short pounds, the waterway between a lock and the next lock, which were between one and two kilometres, we were averaging a lock per hour. Of course we had a tunnel. This one is 4.354 kilometres long and you have to do it at speed about 8 kph, which is fast in a confined space with 80+ tonnes of steel.

South entrance to 'Le souterrain de Ruyaulcourt'.

The tunnel is almost unique in the fact it has a passing place in the middle. All controlled by traffic lights. You hope they've got it right as the rest of the tunnel is definitely one way at a time.

Passing a small pleasure boat. 

Whilst we are in a convoy of large commercial boats, the boats coming the other way were all small pleasure craft. The journey up the Canal du Nord takes 2 days and involves long hours. We were up at 6.00 AM and off into the first lock at 6.30 AM!! Mad or what? The trouble is that you have to lock with commercial boats and if you find one that can fit with your boat you're best to keep together. Octopus (the commercial in front of us) was on a mission so we decided to keep in tow. Long days. Recently we have had our longest day, our earliest start and our greatest distance in a day.

Les deux ponts d'Hermies.

As the canal is so busy we have to make full use of our AIS (Automatic Identification System) to track what other boats are up to and estimate when they will arrive at the lock, hence when we will be allowed in. As there are few mooring places this is important as you don't want to be hovering in the waterway waiting for an hour until it's your turn, so you control your speed to estimate when they will be coming out. All very tricky.

Screen shot of the traffic.

We got through and it looks like we should make the Ghent rally. Assuming no more canal infrastructure breakdowns or natural disasters.

Getting close.

MAX GUERDIN ET FILS

What a delight! Well it is to some of us. There are so few chandleries in France so when you come across one it's time to go shopping and fill up with those hard to get spares. Max Guerdin is quite famous in France as it is probably the best chandlery. It certainly is for barges and inland waterway vessels.

Shelves of Victron.

Oh I could do with one of those on the third shelf! More seriously they are well stocked, many of the items are normally by order only. I suppose if you are commercial and something breaks you need it now and you don't have an address to send it to. So Max Guerdin comes to the rescue.

What size filter did you say you wanted?

I could have spent hours in there but Ghent calls. Looks like we may make the rally, but it will be close despite our long days. Casting off at 07.30! I thought we were supposed to be retired.

PORT DE L'ARSENAL - PARIS

After years of trying we were accepted into the Arsenal in Paris. The consolation prize for going the long way to Ghent is a couple of days in Paris. We hope we can afford the time. That depends on any future breakdowns/stoppages of the waterways network. Who knows? Getting into the Arsenal is quite a challenge.The entrance is a tiny 'gap' in the walls of the Seine. Phone ahead and hope they have the lock ready for entry. With the flow of the Seine you don't want to hover. This was all organised. As we approached closer all looks good except two red lights. Back onto the VHF radio, 'Can we enter?' 'Yes of course, it is ready for you.' 'We have two red lights!' 'Don't bother about the lights.' So in we came. It's tight.

The entrance from the Seine.

The locking process took a while as one of the gates has to be manually closed as it is currently malfunctioning. We did have a lot of gongoozlers (onlookers) whilst we rose slowly.

Gongoozlers.

We found our correct mooring and settled down for a couple of days in Paris.

Rafted up for a couple of nights.

The Arsenal is a great location next to Place de la Bastille and Le Marais. All the historic areas and sites are very walkable.

Pretty lights at night down L'Arsenal towards Place de la Bastille.

So a couple of days seeing friends, bimbling, a few nice meals, a gallery and probably a bit of retail therapy. Personally I'm looking to the retail therapy next week at Max Guerdon in Compiègne, one of the best chandleries in France.

Margaret with a full English breakfast in the heart of Paris. As they say, someone had to do it.

WHEN IN MEAUX

Well it's got to be Brie. Surprisingly it's hard to find in the city. We did search out Le Maison de la Brie. You really have to if you're here in Meaux and like Brie. I really feel Maison de la Brie could have had ...... Brie! But tastings only at 15.30 in the afternoon. Say no more. Otherwise it was informative. 

Some of the many Brie de Meaux labels.

I did not realise the difference between 'Brie de Meaux' and 'Brie' apart from the endorsement from the committee that approve individual's production.  The difference is the fact that Brie de Meaux is only from the AOC area and uses unpasteurised milk whereas other Bries are not from the AOC and normally use pasteurised milk. Well there you go. The committee that approves the Brie, if you are a producer, do have a unique outfit. This guy is the Dude! He is the 'Grand Chambellan l'un des confondateurs de la Confrérie du Brie de Meaux'. With the hat.

M. Daniel Troublé.

The committee meet each year to enforce the standard of Brie producers. Nice hats. Yes surprisingly it does look like and has the same texture as a whole Brie.

The committee giving its verdict outside Cathédrale Sainte-Étienne de Meaux.

LA MARNE

Now we are moving along and getting to the rally in Ghent is a possibility. La Marne is a big river with very few locks, very little traffic and very calm. We are progressing well and doing up to 70 kilometres a day. Yes that is a lot on a barge. A 'bloody lot' said Margaret.

Tranquil waters.

Being a 'shed' person I was impressed with these fishing/socialising structures. Obviously for fishing but all have a table and chairs for al fresco lunches. An obvious but no less amusing point is that they have only one wall with a locked door. I suppose no one is going to break in from the river side.

A peaceful location.

Of course we have our own dining location where we have spent a considerable time in this amazing weather. Must get on, we are now well on our way to Paris where we have booked a mooring in the Arsenal. A couple of days off from navigation and meeting up with friends.

After dinner chilling.

BOLLINGER

Well, many of us like a little Bolly now and again, and I'm no exception, but I was surprised that such a high profile drink, comes from such a small town known as Ay. It's just south of Reims which is well known as Champagne city. As we were going past on the barge we happened to see the town plaque with all the twinning towns on it. I had a good look to see where it was twinned with. I was amazed to see that it is twinned with Newton Abbot which may not mean much to most of you but it was my home town in Devon where I grew up! I must admit I cannot see any connection or similarity between Bollinger and Newton Abbot. I was driving Soraya at the time and Geoff had to take over rather quickly as I turned for a second look to make sure I wasn't imagining it. Bollinger/Newton Abbot, no still can't see the connection!

The twinning sign with Ay, Champagne and Newton Abbot??

ON OUR WAY

Good news we eventually left Pargny sur Saulx, the trees were cleared and we got the green light. It was a very slow day getting past the area of the tornado where VNF were still working to clear the sunken tree debris. So on to the Champagne region. Yes there are châteaux and a lot of vineyards.

A châteaux outside Ay.

The champagne production must be paying well. Interestingly if you visit a champagne cave in Reims, Épernay or Ay it's all very sexy with old pre Roman underground caves that are now used to store champagne. The reality is I'm afraid slightly different:

Modern production.

They do not like to mention the industrial scale of the output. Why would they? They keep the Roman caves for the vintage bottles and the tourists.

We are now pressing on for Ghent, however, a new disaster has struck. The Canal de L'Aisne à la Marne, our intended route, has been closed as the top pound is leaking badly, and won't be repaired until after the Ghent rally. So again another route this time via Paris, good, but a lot longer, bad! So we still do not know if we will get there in time!!

On another note in Chalon en Champagne last night I realise I had missed the point of exercise equipment. It's obviously for Facebooking. 

Quality time with a friend.

NOW WE ARE RAFTING UP

Yes we are still in Pargny sur Saulx. The canal is still closed whilst the chainsaw guys, working from the banks and a large work barge, remove the fallen trees. The rumour about the tornado was true, there is even a video on YouTube. With boats being unable to progress they are building up and we now have a large empty commercial rafted alongside. There is a good sense of camaraderie amongst the various crews as we are all, not literally, in the same boat. So lots of chatting and an apéritif or two. 

Cobra rafted alongside Soraya.

Interestingly we think the couple on Cobra come from Ghent, where we are trying to get to. They have advised us that there is congestion on the Canal du Nord, our intended route. So it may be time to change again, once we actually leave Pargny sur Saulx. Meanwhile it's exchanging stories and a degustation of foie gras and wine on Celeste. Latest rumour, VNF may finish the clearance works tomorrow, however, they did stop work at 16.30!!

THIS IS GETTING DIFFICULT

As stated previously we have the odds stacked against us to get to the DBA rally in Ghent. The Sarre was closed due to repairs to the locks in Germany, La Meuse was closed due to flooding. We're now on Canal de la Marne au Rhin and we have another closure! We are in Pargny-sur-Saulx in a gale, say no more, and now the traffic lights on the lock have gone out. This may not mean much to you, however, they should normally be: red = stop, red + green = getting ready, green = go and occasionally double red = broken down. No lights = ?? On flagging down a VNF (canal administration and maintenance staff) we were told that in excess of 10 very large trees had fallen across the canal in the gales. As today is a jour férié (public holiday) the first likely date to open the canal is Thursday. The notification as just received below from VNF states Friday!

VNF Avisbat advising of the closure of the canal.

As we cannot move we craned scoots off Soraya and went to look for the blockage. We found it. It is very severe with lots of trees down from both sides of the canal. What a mess.

Margaret looking serious at the devastation.

Tree after tree across the canal.

We just heard that the works to remove the trees will not be finished now until Saturday! Apparently a mini tornado went though also damaged a local village. Will we arrive at the Ghent rally on time?? If anything else happens the answer could be no. Who knows!!